Itten's color wheel

In coloristics, the main task of brow makers and makeup artists is to choose the right color for eyebrows. It is important to take into account the hair type, skin tone, and color type of appearance. It is difficult to navigate "by eye", so to make the work easier and achieve a professional result, a special scheme is used - the Itten color circle. But to achieve the effect, it is important to know how to use it correctly. We will talk about this in the article.

Itten Circle: What is it

The term “Itten's Color Wheel” refers to a unique visual scheme of 12 colors. It includes:

• the three primary hues are the primary colors: yellow, red and blue;
• three secondary colors - these include green, orange and violet;
• six tertiary – this group includes mixed ones, such as yellow-orange, for example, or red-violet.

This scheme is constructed in such a way that it is easier to understand the logic of mixing and the possible result. In it, the primary shades are evenly distributed, between them are secondary shades, and between the primary and secondary shades are tertiary shades.

Additionally, the colors in the circle are divided into cold and warm, which determines their perception. Conventionally, the division runs along the line connecting the red-violet and yellow-green shades of the circle. Warm shades include such shades as red, yellow, orange and all possible options for mixing them. Visually, they are perceived as brighter, creating a feeling of warmth. Cold - these are blue, violet, green and shades that are formed when they are mixed. Visually, they create a feeling of coolness, freshness.

This scheme was developed by Johannes Itten, a Swiss theorist and artist. It was he who developed the principle of working with colors and proposed a version of their combinations. At the same time, Itten used the works of his predecessors in this field, simply systematizing them.

The purpose of the circle is to help build a harmonious palette through the selection of colors and their combinations. This scheme makes it easier to determine soft harmonious or contrasting combinations. 

Today, the color wheel of color combinations has become a "handbook" not only for artists or interior designers, but also for beauty professionals. It helps to select shades when mixing different colors, whether it is brow paint or eyeshadow in the work of a makeup artist.

What are secondary and tertiary colors

Not everyone understands how the shades are divided in Itten's circle, and which ones have a priority of primacy. These include basic, primary, pure colors, when mixed, additional ones are created. These are called secondary. Tertiary colors are created using primary and secondary ones. 

 That is, secondary and tertiary colors are the result of a combination. Their formula is different. To get secondary colors, mix a pair of primary colors, and for tertiary colors, mix 1 primary and 1 secondary. For example, orange is obtained by mixing two primary colors - yellow and red. It is a secondary color. And to get a tertiary color, you need to mix orange (secondary) with any primary color. If with yellow, you get yellow-orange, if with red, you get red-orange, etc.

The presence of colors close in tone in the formula guarantees a harmonious result, since shades from the same group are selected - warm or cold, so there will be no neutralization or conflicting combinations.

Itten Circle Usage Schemes

Another feature of the circle is the ability to build color combinations. Moreover, this should not be done randomly, but using various schemes. They have already been developed in such a way that they cover the most compatible shades from all three groups. There are many schemes, but there are several that are used most often and are considered "classic". If you understand them, you can understand how to use Ethan's color wheel.

Complementary colors

This is what complementary and contrasting colors are called. They can be found by drawing a straight line through the center of the circle. The shades that end up on opposite ends of the line are complementary.

They should not be used for mixing in a 1:1 ratio, since such shades will drown out and interrupt each other. How to combine complementary colors? They are ideal for creating accents. That is, one of them is chosen as the main one, and the other is additional and is taken in small quantities to create a bright contrast.

Classical triad

To build this diagram, you need to draw a triangle with equal sides and a center inside a circle. The shades that will be located at its vertices are the triad. 

This scheme is suitable if a smooth contrast is required. In order for the combination to look harmonious, you need to choose only 1 bright and 2 muted colors.

Similar combination

This scheme is built from 3-5 colors. It is necessary to observe the main condition - these colors on the Itten circle must be located next to each other.

By using a similar combination, you can create a discreet, pleasant and elegant combination.

Rectangular combination

To build it, you need to inscribe a rectangle in the Itten circle. This combination is quite bright, attracts attention, at the same time it forms a soft and pleasant for the eyes combination, since in this scheme every 2 shades are complementary. To further soften the effect, only 1 color from the primary ones can be defined as the main one, and three can be used for accents (secondary or tertiary).

Square diagram

This is a tetrad. This scheme is built from four colors that are equidistant from each other.

The harmony of the combination is due to the principle of using two pairs of complementary colors. Often in practice, one color is chosen as the main one, and three are accent colors.

Monochrome scheme

It combines shades of the same color that differ in saturation. In such a scheme, only 1 color is chosen as the main one, and the additional ones are its variations, different in brightness. In makeup, when using such a combination, the primary color is mainly used for lips, but can also be used for eyes, and its shades are for makeup of other areas.

How Makeup Artists Use the Itten Circle

When creating makeup, the masters are guided not only by trends and preferences. They also take into account the compatibility of colors and shades of shadows, lipstick, blush in order to achieve harmony and integrity of the image. Itten's circle helps them with this. Moreover, makeup cosmetics, which are available in a wide range of shades, are also created using this palette. 

Itten's circle is a tool that helps to emphasize the color of the eyes, smooth out the transitions in tone to create a natural make-up, add or muffle the saturation of shades in the appearance. Using the circle makes it easier to choose:

• complementary colors: for example, for green eyes, choose coral lipstick or combine yellow and purple eyeshadow;
• similar shades to create neutral transitions, smooth shading and a natural effect in makeup;
• saturation and brightness of makeup by lightening (mixing colors with white) or darkening (mixing with black) to achieve the desired effect.

Using the Itten circle and color combination schemes help makeup artists create a base for work, avoiding conflicts between shades of cosmetics and with the shade of skin, eyes, and hair. This way, you can create not only stylish and beautiful makeup, but also emphasize the features of your appearance and its advantages.

Itten's color wheel in the work of eyebrow artists

One of the areas that brow makers work with is coloristics. It is based on the selection and mixing of different colors of paint to obtain a shade that would suit the client both in terms of skin color type and preferences. It is important to observe not only the proportions, but also the combination or conflict of colors. Otherwise, the result may be unpredictable. And in this, they are also helped by the Itten color circle. It helps with mixing and choosing pigments:

• cool ones – for warm-toned skin, and vice versa, neutral ones – for more flexible combinations;
• removing a yellow tone in paint by adding a shade opposite to that color on the wheel;
• creating contrast or neutralization - the further away the colors are on the wheel, the more they smooth each other out, and vice versa, those that are close - create contrast.

Using a circle helps to avoid green, purple, orange or burgundy undertones when mixing paint or pigments for permanent makeup. It is especially useful when you need a light brown color, which has many shades and is created by combining several different ones. Also, with a circle it is easier to choose eyebrow products, such as shadows, mascara, dyes.

Benefits of Using Itten's Circle in Makeup

Creating a harmonious image that would suit both the type of appearance and the costume (if we are talking about makeup) is an important condition that every stylist, makeup artist or eyebrow artist strives for. But it is difficult to select colors "by eye" or mix them to get a new shade, since they can either neutralize each other or provide an unexpected and not the most pleasant result. Therefore, beauty professionals should buy Itten's color wheel to predict the effect of combining different colors. Moreover, it is suitable for both decorative and permanent makeup.

And all the materials necessary for work, such as shadows, pigments, paints, lipsticks can be ordered from our website. Professional cosmetics Zola are easy to work with, easy to mix, suitable for use by both professionals and girls who like to experiment with makeup at home.